Thursday, April 15, 2010

TexMex Comes to Ancona

Can the story of buying vacuum cleaner bags span two blog posts? Probably not but I’m just courageous enough to try! For those of you holding your breath, or crossing your fingers, or burning sage and dust balls for me - I still don't have the bags. Sorry. I hope I haven't caused a crisis of confidence. This is what happened…

I went back to the shop the following day because the negozia (shopkeeper) had said they would be ”pronto per domani” (ready for tomorrow). I got there about the same time as before and the door was locked, the lights out and a small sign said "torno subito" (I'll be right back.) Yeah right. I waited a few minutes but no sight of anyone so I went home. The next day, Friday, I tried again, once in the afternoon and once after work and both times the lights were out, the door locked, and even better, no sign. At this point, I’ve given up and I’m done with it. If Raimondo insists on living in a clean apartment he can deal with it himself. I’ll make friends with the filth.

Raimondo was undeterred. (Probably because this is typical and he’s used to dealing with situations like this.) He went to the store last Saturday and the negozia was actually there, but the bags were not despite her earlier promises on two separate occasions to both him and me. It turns out they don't actually order the bags so much as her father goes to another store (like we could have originally but what’s the fun in that) and buys them, they mark-up the price and resell them. Her father has been busy, or sick, or something, and hasn't had the chance to go to the store. But she took his order again and said they would be there on Tuesday and this time she really, really, really meant it. I don't know if Raimondo has gone back since and I don't care. I'll just use the broom.

On Friday night we had a going away dinner for a friend who is moving back to Turkey because he finished his Master's program. We were a group of about 30 and we went to a newish place - a Tex-Mex restaurant. The only one in Ancona (there used to be another one but the owner skipped town with all the money and it closed which is probably why this one opened. No competition! An unmet demand for Mexican cuisine!). In my heart I had visions of burritos, fresh tortilla chips, fish tacos, a side of sour cream. I've had the same meal dozens of times in Portland and could almost smell and taste it. Realistically, I knew it wasn't going to be like that at all, but I was pretty sure I’d be ecstatic if it was even similar to Taco Bell. The heart wants what the heart wants though, and don't get me started on what my tongue and stomach wanted. And so I dreamed.

Once we were seated and I started reading the menu a hunch began developing for what we were in store for. The dishes were right: fresh chips, guacamole, burrito, enchilada, fajitas. But the descriptions were a little off – as in a burrito contained chili con carne and onion – and the combination of ingredients a little unusual. And when the first bowl of queso Italian style - a lugubrious mass of scalded cheese, a slick of grease and some bits of sausage - hit the table I knew I was still in Ancona and not magically transported to El Burrito Loco on North Denver. Because our group was so large we didn't each order our own plates; they served us several appetizers and several entrées, family style. To start we had the above mentioned queso along with a second version without the sausage (for the vegetarians?) and bowls of nachos. The nachos were interesting and had pickled jalapenos which I recognized but no one else did so I let them eat away and laughed myself silly as the faces turned red and the tears ran. There was also salsa which was similar to pico di gayo without onions or cilantro. For the main meal there were tortillas (like the flour ones you'd buy at Safeway but not like the ones you’d buy at Fred Meyer) with chili (beef stewed with pinto beans) and something else (sausage with more pinto beans and tomatoes) that was really spicy. I think there was also fajitas but they never made it to our end of the table.

It wasn't Mexican food like I wanted, but it wasn't Italian food either and that's what I really liked. It had nice flavors and there wasn't a bit of pasta or a pizza in sight and for that I was very happy. It was really nice to have a different taste profile. The best thing was how enthusiastically everyone embraced the meal. A lot of them didn't even know what the food was and were asking me to explain "burrito", "enchilada", or "guacamole" but that didn't stop them from trying things and having a good time. I don't know if they liked it but it was fun to see everyone laughing as a jalapeño burned their mouth or they put down their knife and fork and ate with their fingers. The concept of eating with their hands was a little foreign so more than a few had their tortillas explode in their hands. The women were definitely more adventurous and willing to try everything. They even seemed to handle the heat better. The guys were good sports but you could tell they weren't quite as sure about it. It was great though. Except for one guy. Out of thirty people, he was the only one to refuse to try the food. The restaurant very wisely offers a full Italian menu along with pizza. He ordered ravioli, scallopine and french fries. He got a lot of teasing and his girlfriend couldn't stop rolling her eyes but he was happy so good for him. And good for me.

And this bit that comes next is like ordering ravioli at a TexMex restaurant; it just doesn't fit (although my Grandpa once ordered macaroni and cheese in a Mexican restaurant so maybe it does fit). My personal tutor in all things Italian, Valentina, forwarded this documentary to me and I found it pretty interesting. It's about the treatment of women in Italian media and very fascinating. Because of the subject matter it’s better not watched at work. But it’s definitely entertaining and education. Your decision. Just click right here if you want to see it. Additionally, or for those of you busily involved with lifting the US economy out of its slump with no time for 24 minute Italian documentaries, there was an interesting article in the NY Times last summer that discussed the same topic.

Here’s a couple pictures from the Easter trip to make this post as visually enticing as it was verbally delicious. I originally said I’d have photos from the trip by the 4th of July and can confidently say I am on track.


The walls surrounding Lucca town center.


The MUP on the walls of Lucca: 5km long, 10m wide, 12m off the ground. Fantastic.


The Battistero di San Giovanni in the Piazza dei Miracoli.


La Torre di Pisa and the Duomo di Pisa.


Right where the book said it would be!

2 comments:

  1. Fantastic Tex-Mex story. I'm going to King Burrito just because of it. I guess that's why most restaurants here have a burger listed on the menu no matter what cuisine they normally offer. It's for the guy who just can't quite make himself eat those strange noodles or fish.

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  2. I hope you enjoyed your burrito...and then got indigestion.

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